A guide to modern cookery by A. Escoffier

2. Thick soups, which comprise the Purées, Veloutés, and Creams.

A third class, which is independent of either of the above, inasmuch as it forms part of plain, household cookery, embraces vegetable soups and Garbures or _gratined_ soups. But in important dinners—by this I mean rich dinners—only the first two classes are recognised. When a menu contains two soups, one must be clear and the other thick. If only one is to be served, it may be either clear or thick, in which case the two kinds are represented alternately at different meals. In Part I. of this work I indicated the general mode of procedure for consommés and thick soups; I explained how the latter might be converted from plain purées into veloutés or creams, or from veloutés into creams; and all that now remains is to reveal the recipes proper to each of those soups. _Remarks._—In the course of the recipes for consommés, given hereafter, the use of Royales (Nos. 206 to 213) and of Quenelles, variously prepared (Nos. 193 to 195 and 205), will often be enjoined. For the preparation of these garnishes, therefore, the reader will have to refer to the numbers indicated. The quantities for the clear soups that follow are all calculated to be sufficient for a standard number of six people, and the quantity of Royales is always given in so many _dariole-moulds_, which contain about one-eighth pint, or _baba-moulds_, which hold about one-fifth pint. Of course, it will be understood that the poaching need not necessarily have been effected in these moulds, for very small “Charlotte” moulds would do quite as well. But I had recourse to the particular utensils mentioned above, in order that there might be no sort of doubt as to the exact quantity of royale it would be necessary to prepare for any one of the soups. =Clear Soups and Garnished Consommés= 539—CONSOMMÉ ALEXANDRA Have a quart of excellent chicken consommé ready; add thereto, in order to thicken it slightly, three tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca, strained through muslin, and very clear. Put the following garnish into the soup-tureen: One tablespoonful of white chicken-meat cut in fine _julienne-fashion_, one tablespoonful of small chicken quenelles, grooved and long in shape, and one tablespoonful of lettuce _chiffonade_. Pour the boiling consommé upon this garnish, and send to the table immediately. 540—CONSOMMÉ AMBASSADRICE Have one quart of chicken consommé ready; also there should have been prepared beforehand, with the view of using them quite cold, three different kinds of royales, consisting respectively of truffle purée, tomato purée, and purée of peas, each of which should have been poached in a _dariole-mould_. Cut these royales up into regular dice, and put them in the soup-tureen with one tablespoonful of chicken fillet and an equal quantity of small, freshly-cooked mushrooms, finely minced. Pour the boiling consommé over these garnishes, and serve at once. 541—CONSOMMÉ ANDALOUSE Prepare a _baba-mould_ of royale made from tomato purée. When quite cold, cut it into dice, and put these in the soup-tureen with one small tablespoonful of cooked ham cut in _julienne-fashion_, one tablespoonful of boiled rice, with every grain distinct and separate, and two tablespoonfuls of threaded eggs (No. 217). When about to serve, pour one quart of very clear chicken consommé over the garnish. 542—CONSOMMÉ D’ARENBERG With a small spoon-cutter, pick out a spoonful of carrot pearls and the same quantity of turnip pearls. Cook these vegetables by boiling them in consommé, taking care that the latter be reduced to a glaze when the vegetables are cooked. With the same spoon take the same quantity as above of very black truffle; also prepare a _dariole-mould_ of royale made from asparagus heads, and a dozen small chicken-forcemeat quenelles, which should be moulded to the shape of large pearls. Poach the quenelles, cut the royales up into slices, which must be stamped with an indented fancy-cutter, and put the whole into the soup-tureen with the carrots, turnips, and truffle pearls, and one tablespoonful of very green peas. Pour a quart of chicken consommé over the garnish, and send to the table at once. 543—CONSOMMÉ A LA BOHÉMIENNE Prepare three _dariole-moulds_ of foie-gras royale, and twelve _profiterolles_ (No. 218) of the size of hazel-nuts, the latter being made very crisp. When the royale is cold, cut it into little, regular squares, and put these into the soup-tureen. When about to serve, pour over this garnish a quart of chicken consommé, thickened by means of three tablespoonfuls of tapioca, poached and strained through linen. Send the _profiterolles_ to the table separately, and very hot. 544—CONSOMMÉ BOÏELDIEU Prepare eighteen chicken-forcemeat quenelles, moulded by means of a small teaspoon; some should be stuffed with foie-gras purée, moistened with a little velouté; others with chicken purée; and yet others with truffle purée—in short, six of each kind. Place these, one by one, on a buttered sauté-pan; poach them, drain them, and put them in the soup-tureen with a tablespoonful of white chicken-meat, cut into dice. When about to serve, pour one quart of chicken consommé, thickened as above with tapioca, over the garnish. 545—CONSOMMÉ BOUQUETIERE Prepare a garnish of carrots and turnips, cut with the tubular cutter or with the spoon; French beans cut into lozenges, asparagus-heads, and green peas, all of which vegetables should be fresh and young. Cook each vegetable according to its nature, and put the whole into the soup-tureen. When about to serve, pour over the garnish one quart of chicken consommé thickened with two tablespoonfuls of tapioca, poached and strained through fine linen. 546—CONSOMMÉ BOURDALOUE Prepare a _dariole-mould_ of each of the four following royales:—