A guide to modern cookery by A. Escoffier

=1. Elementary Preparations= Before broaching the question of the numerous preparations which constitute the various soup, relevé, and entrée garnishes, it will be necessary to give the formulæ of the elementary preparations, or what are technically called the _mise en place_. If the various operations which go to make the _mise en place_ were not, at least summarily, discussed here, I should be compelled to repeat them in each formula for which they are required—that is to say, in almost every formula. I should thus resemble those bad operators who, having neglected their _mise en place_, are obliged to make it in the course of other work, and thereby not only run the risk of making it badly, but also of losing valuable time which might be used to better advantage. Elementary preparations consist of those things whereof one is constantly in need, which may be prepared in advance, and which are kept available for use at a moment’s notice. 173—ANCHOVIES (FILLETS OF) Whether they be for hors d’œuvres or for culinary use, it is always best to have these handy. After having washed and well wiped them, in order to remove the white powder resulting from the little scales with which they are covered, they should be neatly trimmed to the shape of extended oblongs. Then detach the fillets from the bones by gentle pulling, divide each fillet lengthwise into three or four smaller fillets, put the latter into a small narrow dish or a little bowl, and cover them with oil. The fillets may also be kept whole with a view to rolling them into rings. 174—ANGLAISE (FOR EGG-AND-BREAD-CRUMBING) It is well to have this always ready for those dishes which are to be _panés à l’anglaise_, or as many of the recipes direct: _treated à l’anglaise_. It is made of well-whisked eggs, salt, pepper, and one dessertspoonful of oil per couple of eggs. _Its Uses._—The solids to be _panés à l’anglaise_ are dipped into the preparation described above, taking care that the latter coats them thoroughly; whereupon, according to the requirements, they are rolled either in bread-crumbs or in fine raspings. From this combination of egg with bread-crumbs or raspings there results a kind of coat which, at the moment of contact with the hot fat, is immediately converted into a resisting crust. In _croquettes_ this crust checks the escape, into the fat, of the substances it encloses, and this is more especially the case when the _croquettes_ contain some reduced sauce, or are composed of raw meats or fish whose juices are thereby entirely retained. A solid prepared _à l’anglaise_ and cooked in fat should always be put into the latter when this is very hot, so as to ensure the instantaneous solidification of the egg and bread-crumbs. N.B.—Objects to be treated _à l’anglaise_ are generally rolled in flour before being immersed in the _anglaise_, for the flour helps the foregoing to adhere to the object. The crust formed over the solid thus acquires a density which is indispensable. 174a—AROMATICS Aromatics play a very prominent part in cookery, and their combination with the condiments constitutes, as Grimod de la Reynière said, “the hidden soul of cooking.” Their real object, in fact, is to throw the savour of dishes into relief, to intensify that savour, and to give each culinary preparation its particular stamp. They are all derived from the vegetable kingdom; but, while some are used dry, others are used fresh. The first-named should belong to the permanent kitchen stock; they are: _sage_, _basil_, _rosemary_, _sweet marjoram_, _thyme_, and _bay_. Also to be included in the permanent stock are: _cinnamon_, _ginger_, _juniper-berries_, _nutmeg_, _cloves_, _mace_, and _vanilla_. The last-named comprise those aromatic herbs used fresh, such as: _parsley_, _chervil_, _tarragon_, _pimpernel_, and _common savory_; while, under this head, there may also be included: bits of common- and Seville-orange rind and _zests_ of lemon rind. 174b—SEASONING AND CONDIMENTS Seasonings are divided into several classes, which comprise:—