A guide to modern cookery by A. Escoffier

further one-half pint of Marinade, and despumate for one-quarter of an hour, keeping it simmering the while. Strain again through tammy, and finish the sauce, when ready for dishing, with two oz. of butter. This sauce is suitable for joints marinaded or not. 50—POIVRADE SAUCE FOR VENISON Fry, with two oz. of butter and two oz. of oil, one lb. of raw Mirepoix (No. 228) to which are added four lbs. of well-broken bones and ground-game trimmings. When the whole is well browned, drain the grease away, and dilute with one pint of vinegar and one pint of white wine. Reduce this liquid by three-quarters, then add three quarts of game stock and a quart of Espagnole Sauce. Boil, cover the saucepan, and put into a moderate oven, where it should stay for at least three hours. At the end of this time take out the saucepan and pour its contents into a fine sieve placed over a tureen; press the remains so as to expel all the sauce they hold, and pour the sauce into a tall, thick saucepan. Add enough game stock and Marinade, mixed in equal parts, to produce three quarts in all of sauce, and gently reduce the latter while despumating it. As it diminishes in volume, it should be passed through muslin into smaller saucepans, and the reduction should be stopped when only a quart of sauce remains. N.B.—This sauce, like red-wine sauces, may be served as it stands. It is brilliant, clear, and perhaps more sightly thus, but the addition of a certain quantity of butter (four oz. per quart) makes it perfectly mellow, and admirably completes its fragrance. 51—PROVENÇALE SAUCE Peel, remove the seeds, press and concass twelve medium tomatoes. Heat in a sauté-pan one-fifth pint of oil, until it begins to smoke a little; insert the tomatoes seasoned with pepper and salt; add a crushed garlic clove, a pinch of powdered sugar, one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and allow to melt gently for half an hour. In reality, true Provençale is nothing but a fine fondue of tomatoes with garlic. 52—ROBERT SAUCE Finely mince a large onion and put it into a stewpan with butter. Fry the onion gently and without letting it acquire any colour. Dilute with one-third pint of white wine, reduce the latter by one-third, add one pint of half-glaze, and leave to simmer for twenty minutes. When dishing up, finish the sauce with one tablespoonful of meat glaze, one teaspoonful of mustard, and one pinch of powdered sugar. If, when finished, the sauce has to wait, it should be kept warm in a _bain-marie_, as it must not boil again. This sauce—of a spicy flavour—is best suited to grilled and boiled pork. It may also be used for a mince of the same meat. 53—ESCOFFIER ROBERTS SAUCE This sauce may be bought ready-made. It is used either hot or cold. It is especially suitable for pork, veal, poultry, and even fish, and is generally used hot with grills after the equivalent of its volume of excellent brown stock has been added to it. It may also be served cold to accompany cold meat. 54—ROUENNAISE SAUCE Prepare a “Bordelaise” sauce according to Formula No. 32. The diluent of this sauce must be an excellent red wine. For one pint of sauce, pass four raw ducks’ livers through a sieve; add the resulting purée to the Bordelaise, and heat the latter for a few minutes in order to poach the liver. Be careful, however, not to heat the sauce too much nor too long, lest the liver be cooked. Serve this sauce with duckling à la Rouennaise. 55—SALMIS SAUCE The base of this sauce, which rather resembles the cullis, is unchangeable. Its diluent only changes according to the kind of birds or game to be treated, and whether this game is to be considered ordinary or Lenten. Cut and gently brown in butter five oz. of Mirepoix (Formula 228). Add the shin detached from the limbs and the chopped carcase of the bird under treatment, and moisten with one pint of white wine. Reduce the latter to two-thirds, add one-half pint of half glaze, and boil gently for three-quarters of an hour. Pass through a strainer, while pressing upon the carcase and the aromatics, with the view of extracting their quintessence, and thin the cullis thus obtained by means of one-half pint of game stock or mushroom liquor, if the game be Lenten. Now despumate for about one hour, finally reduce the sauce, bring it to its proper consistency with a little mushroom liquor and truffle essence, rub it through tammy, and butter it slightly at the last moment. 56—TORTUE SAUCE Boil one-half pint of veal stock, adding a small sprig of sage, sweet marjoram, rosemary, basil, thyme, and as much bay, two oz. of mushroom parings, and one oz. of parsley. Cover and allow to infuse for half an hour. Two minutes before straining the infusion, add four concassed peppercorns. After straining through fine linen, add one-half pint of half-glaze and as much tomato sauce (away from the fire) with four tablespoonfuls of sherry, a little truffle essence, and a good pinch of cayenne. N.B.—As this sauce must be spicy, the use of cayenne suggests itself, but great caution should be observed, as there must be no excess of this condiment. 57—VENISON SAUCE Prepare a Poivrade sauce for game, as explained in No. 50. Finish this sauce with two tablespoonfuls of red-currant jelly, previously dissolved, and mixed with five tablespoonfuls of fresh cream per pint of sauce. This addition of cream and red-currants must be made away from the fire. Serve this sauce with big ground-game. =Small White and Compound Sauces.= 58—AMERICAN SAUCE This sauce is that of lobster prepared “à l’Américaine” (see No. 939). As it generally accompanies a fish, the meat of the lobster or lobsters which have served in its preparation is sliced and used as the garnish of the fish. 59—ANCHOVY SAUCE Put into a small stewpan one pint of unbuttered “Normande Sauce” (No. 99), and finish it, away from the fire, with three oz. of anchovy butter, and one oz. of anchovy fillets, washed, well sponged, and cut into small pieces. 60—AURORE SAUCE Into one-half pint of boiling velouté put the same quantity of very red tomato purée (No. 29), and mix the two. Let the sauce boil a little, pass it through a tammy, and finish, away from the fire, with three oz. of butter. 61—LENTEN AURORE SAUCE This sauce is made like the preceding one, _i.e._, with the same quantities of velouté and tomato purée, replacing ordinary velouté by fish velouté. 62—BÉARNAISE SAUCE Put into a small stewpan one teaspoonful of chopped shallots, two oz. of chopped tarragon stalks, three oz. of chervil, some mignonette pepper, a pinch of salt, and four tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Reduce the vinegar by two-thirds, take off the fire, let the stewpan cool a little, and add to this reduction the yolks of five eggs. Now put the stewpan on a low fire and gradually combine with the yolks six oz. of melted butter. Whisk the sauce briskly, so as to ensure the cooking of the yolks, which alone, by gradual cooking, effect the leason of the sauce. When the butter is combined with the sauce, rub the latter through tammy, and finish it with a teaspoonful of chervil parings and chopped tarragon leaves. Complete the seasoning with a suspicion of cayenne. This sauce should not be served very hot, as it is really a mayonnaise with butter. It need only be tepid, for it would probably turn if it were over-heated. Serve it with grilled, butcher’s meat and poultry. 63—BÉARNAISE SAUCE WITH MEAT GLAZE, OTHERWISE VALOIS SAUCE OR FOYOT SAUCE Prepare a Béarnaise sauce as explained in No. 62. Complete it with three tablespoonfuls of dissolved pale meat glaze, which may be added in small quantities at a time. Serve it with butcher’s meat. 64—BÉARNAISE TOMATÉE SAUCE OR CHORON SAUCE Proceed in exactly the same way as for Béarnaise No. 62. When the sauce is made and rubbed through tammy, finish it with one-third pint of very red tomato purée. In this case the final addition of chervil and tarragon should not be made. This is proper to “Tournedos Choron,” but it may accompany grilled poultry and white, butcher’s meat. 65—BERCY SAUCE Heat two oz. of chopped shallots. Moisten with one-half pint of white wine and as much fish _fumet_, or, when possible, the same quantity of fish liquor, the latter being, of course, that of a fish similar to the one the sauce is to accompany. Reduce to a good third, add one-third pint of velouté, let the sauce boil some time, and finish it, away from the fire, with four oz. of butter (added by degrees), a few drops of fish glaze, half the juice of a lemon, and one oz. of chopped parsley. Serve with medium-sized poached fish. 66—BUTTER SAUCE Mix two oz. of sifted flour with two oz. of melted butter. Dilute with one quart of boiling water, salted to the extent of one-quarter oz. per quart. Stir briskly to ensure a perfect leason, and do not allow to boil. Add immediately the yolks of six eggs mixed with one-quarter pint of cream and the juice of half a lemon. Rub through a tammy, and finish the sauce with five oz. of best fresh butter. Be careful that the sauce does not boil after it has been thickened. 67—BONNEFOY SAUCE, OR WHITE BORDELAISE SAUCE Put in a stewpan two oz. of minced shallots and one-half pint of Graves, Sauterne, or any other excellent white Bordeaux. Reduce the wine almost entirely, add one-quarter pint of velouté, let it simmer twenty minutes, and rub it through a tammy. Finish it, away from the fire, with six oz. of butter and a little chopped tarragon. Serve it with grilled fish and grilled white meat. 68—CAPER SAUCE This is a derivative of the Butter Sauce described under No. 66, and there need only be added two tablespoonfuls of capers per pint of sauce. It frequently accompanies boiled fish of all kinds. 69—CARDINAL SAUCE Boil one pint of Béchamel, to which add one-half pint of fish _fumet_ and a little truffle essence, and reduce by a quarter. Finish the sauce, when dishing up, with three tablespoonfuls of cream and three oz. of very red lobster butter (No. 149). This sauce is poured over the fish. 70—MUSHROOM SAUCE If this be intended for poultry, add one-fifth pint of mushroom liquor and eight oz. of button-mushroom heads turned or channelled and cooked, to one pint of very stiff Allemande Sauce. If it be intended for fish, take one pint of fish velouté, thickened with the yolks of four eggs, and finish it with mushroom liquor, as above. The sauce that I suggest for poultry may also be used for fish, after adding the necessary quantity of fish _fumet_. 71—CHÂTEAUBRIAND SAUCE Put one oz. of chopped shallots, a sprig of thyme and a bit of bay, one oz. of mushroom parings, and one-quarter pint of white wine into a stewpan. Reduce the wine almost entirely, add one-half pint of veal gravy, and reduce again until the liquid only measures one-quarter pint. Strain through muslin, and finish the sauce away from the fire with four oz. of butter “Maître d’Hôtel” (No. 150), to which may be added a little chopped tarragon. Serve with grilled fillet of beef, otherwise “Châteaubriand.” 72—WHITE CHAUD-FROID SAUCE Boil one pint of velouté in a stewpan, and add three-quarters pint of melted white poultry jelly. Put the stewpan on an open fire, reduce the sauce by a third, stirring constantly the while, and gradually add one-half pint of very fresh cream. When the sauce has reached the desired degree of consistency rub it through a tammy, and stir it frequently while it cools, for fear of a skin forming on its surface, for if this happened it would have to be strained again. When dishing up, this sauce should be cold, so that it may properly coat immersed solids and yet be liquid enough to admit of the latter being easily steeped into it. 73—ORDINARY CHAUD-FROID SAUCE Proceed exactly as above, substituting Allemande Sauce for the velouté, and reducing the quantity of cream to one-quarter pint. Observe the same precautions while cooling. 74—CHAUD-FROID SAUCE, A L’AURORE Prepare a white Chaud-Froid (No. 72). The same may be coloured by the addition of fine red tomato purée—more or less to match the desired shade—or by an infusion of paprika, according to the use for which it is intended. This last product is preferable when not too deep a shade is required. 75—CHAUD-FROID SAUCE, AU VERT-PRÉ Add to the velouté of the white Chaud-Froid sauce, at the same time as the jelly, an infusion prepared thus:—Boil one-quarter pint of white wine, and add to it one pinch of chervil stalks, a similar quantity of tarragon leaves, chives, and parsley leaves. Cover, allow infusion to proceed away from the fire for ten minutes, and strain through linen. Treat the sauce as explained, and finish with spinach-green (No. 143). The shade of the sauce must not be too pronounced, but must remain a pale green. The colouring principle must therefore be added with caution and in small quantities, until the correct shade is obtained. Use this sauce for Chaud-froids of fowl, particularly that kind distinguished as “_Printanier_.” 76—LENT CHAUD-FROID SAUCE Proceed as for white Chaud-Froid, using the same quantities, and taking note of the following modifications:—