A guide to modern cookery by A. Escoffier

=Entremets (Sweets)= Pastry, Confectionery, and Ices are so closely allied to Cookery, and they are so surely its complements, that it is impossible to omit them when dealing with Entremets, even though the latter be limited to the kind proper to the kitchen. However, these subjects, which could supply matter for voluminous works, are too complex for it to be possible to cope thoroughly with them here. I shall therefore confine myself to the expounding of their fundamental principles and the essential operations relating thereto, a knowledge of which is absolutely necessary for the successful preparation of Kitchen Entremets and Ices. The directions given hereafter are certainly too inadequate to convert an ordinary cook into a pastry-cook, a confectioner, or a “glacier”; but they will at least admit of his carrying out a complete dinner, if the necessity so to do should occur. =Elementary Preparations of Pastry which may be Applied to Entremets= 2338—VARIOUS ALMOND PREPARATIONS It is important that one should have skinned, splintered, and chopped almonds. _To Skin Almonds._—Throw them in a saucepan of boiling water, place the utensil on the side of the fire without allowing the boiling to continue, and let the almonds soak for seven or eight minutes. As soon as the skin slips when pressing them between one’s fingers, turn them out on to a strainer; cool them in cold water, and skin them. This done, wash them in cold water; drain them well; spread them on a very clean tray, and dry them in a mild oven. _Splintered Almonds._—Having skinned and washed the almonds, split them in two, and cut each half into five or six splinters. Dry the latter in the drying-box, and place them in the front of the oven for a while to colour slightly. They serve for nougat, and sometimes take the place of pignolis. _Chopped Almonds._—Having skinned the almonds, slightly dry them and chop them with a knife; rub them through a canvas sieve, the coarseness of which should be in accordance with that required for the chopped almonds. Spread the latter on a tray covered with a sheet of paper, and dry them in the drying-box, stirring them from time to time the while. _Grilled Almonds._—These are either splintered or chopped almonds set to bake on a tray in a moderate oven. Be sure to stir them frequently, that they may colour evenly, and withdraw them when they are of a nice golden shade. _Pralined Almonds._—Proceed as for grilled almonds, but sprinkle them frequently with icing sugar, which turns to caramel under the influence of the heat of the oven, and swathes the almonds in a pale-brown coat of sugar. 2339—VARIOUS PREPARATIONS OF FILBERTS AND HAZEL-NUTS Filberts are a large kind of hazel-nut, generally covered with red skins. After having cracked and suppressed the shells, set the filberts on a dish, and place them in the front of the oven until their skins are slightly grilled. They need then only be rubbed between the fingers in order to clear them of their skins. Chopped filberts are prepared like chopped almonds, and should be included in the permanent “_mise en place_” of the pastry cook. 2340—VARIOUS BUTTERS _Softened Butter._—More particularly in winter, when it is very hard, butter should be softened, _i.e._, thoroughly kneaded in a towel, to:—