A guide to modern cookery by A. Escoffier

CHAPTER III

=The Small Compound Sauces= _Remarks._—In order that the classification of the small sauces should be clear and methodical, I divide them into three parts. The first part includes the small brown sauces; the second deals with the small white sauces and those suited to this part of the classification; while the third is concerned with the English sauces. =The Small Brown Sauces= 31—SAUCE BIGARRADE This sauce is principally used to accompany braised and poëled ducklings. In the first case, the duckling’s braising stock, being thickened, constitutes a sauce. In the second case, the stock is clear, and the procedure in both cases is as follows:—

← Previous Back to Home Next →

Chapter 1 Ch.1
PART I Ch.2
CHAPTER I PAGE Ch.3
CHAPTER II Ch.4
CHAPTER III Ch.5
CHAPTER IV Ch.6
CHAPTER V Ch.7
CHAPTER VI Ch.8
CHAPTER VII Ch.9
CHAPTER VIII Ch.10
CHAPTER IX Ch.11
CHAPTER X Ch.12
PART II Ch.13
CHAPTER XI PAGE Ch.14
CHAPTER XII Ch.15
CHAPTER XIII Ch.16
CHAPTER XIV Ch.17
CHAPTER XV Ch.18
CHAPTER XVI Ch.19
CHAPTER XVII Ch.20
CHAPTER XVIII Ch.21
CHAPTER XIX Ch.22
CHAPTER XX Ch.23
CHAPTER XXI Ch.24
CHAPTER XXII Ch.25
CHAPTER XXIII Ch.26
PART I Ch.27
CHAPTER I Ch.28
2. The brown stock or “_estouffade_,” game stocks, the bases of Ch.29
5. The various essences of poultry, game, fish, &c., the complements Ch.30
7. The basic sauces: Espagnole, Velouté, Béchamel, Tomato, and Ch.31
8. The savoury jellies or aspics of old-fashioned cooking. Ch.32
6. The various garnishes for soups, for relevés, for entrées, &c. Ch.33
CHAPTER II Ch.34
2. Be scrupulously careful of the roux, however it may be made. By Ch.35
CHAPTER III Ch.36
1. After having strained the braising sauce, completely remove its Ch.37
2. Strain the poëling stock, for ducklings or wild ducks, through Ch.38
1. Heat two oz. of butter in a stewpan, and insert one lb. of raw Ch.39
2. Pass the sauce through a strainer, pressing the aromatics; add a Ch.40
2. Substitute white fish jelly for poultry jelly. Ch.41
1. The Soubise is rather a cullis than a sauce; _i.e._, its consistence Ch.42
2. The admixture of Béchamel in Soubise is preferable to that of rice, Ch.43
3. In accordance with the uses to which it may be put, the Soubise Ch.44
2. The Villeroy Tomatée may be finally seasoned with curry or paprika, Ch.45
1. Add one-quarter pint of fish _fumet_ to one pint of thickened Ch.46
2. Almost entirely reduce one-quarter pint of fish _fumet_. To this Ch.47
3. Put the yolks of five eggs into a small stewpan and mix them with Ch.48
CHAPTER IV Ch.49
1. If the sauce forms badly, or not at all, the reason is that the Ch.50
2. It is quite an error to suppose that it is necessary to work over Ch.51
3. It is a further error to suppose that the seasoning interferes with Ch.52
3. Excess of oil in proportion to the number of yolks, the Ch.53
CHAPTER V Ch.54
2. That it be only added to the aspic when the latter is already Ch.55
CHAPTER VI Ch.56
3. To apportion the wine and water in the ratio of two-thirds Ch.57
1. _Court-bouillon_ must always be prepared in advance for all fish, Ch.58
2. When a fish is of such a size as to need more than half an Ch.59
3. Fish, when whole, should be immersed in cold _court-bouillon_; when Ch.60
4. If fish be cooked in short liquor the aromatics are put under the Ch.61
5. _Court-bouillon_ for ordinary and spiny lobsters should always be at Ch.62
6. Fish which is to be served cold, also shell-fish, should cool in the Ch.63
CHAPTER VII Ch.64
2. _Acid seasonings._—Plain vinegar, or the same aromatised with Ch.65
3. _Hot seasonings._—Peppercorns, ground or _concassed_ pepper, or Ch.66
4. _Saccharine seasonings._—Sugar and honey. Ch.67
2. _Hot condiments._—Mustard, gherkins, capers, English sauces, such Ch.68
3. _Fatty substances._—Most animal fats, butter, vegetable greases Ch.69
1. The quantity of spiced salt varies, a few grammes either way, Ch.70
2. According to the purpose of the forcemeat, and with a view to Ch.71
3. As a rule, forcemeat should always be rubbed through a sieve so as Ch.72
4. Whether the foie gras be added or not, chicken forcemeat may always Ch.73
1. _To roll quenelles_ it is necessary to keep the forcemeat somewhat Ch.74
2. _To Mould Quenelles with a Spoon._—This method may be applied to all Ch.75
3. _To Form Quenelles with a Piping-bag._—This process is especially Ch.76
4. _To Mould Forcemeat with the Fingers._—This excellent process is Ch.77
CHAPTER VIII Ch.78
CHAPTER IX Ch.79
CHAPTER X Ch.80
introduction into the vocabulary of cookery is comparatively recent, Ch.81
1. In all circumstances, _i.e._, whatever be the nature of the soup, Ch.82
2. The correct consistence of the soup is got by means of milk Ch.83
4. They are not buttered, but they are finished with one-fifth or Ch.84
1. If the liquor is required to be clear it need only be strained, over Ch.85
2. If, on the contrary, a sauce be required, the liquor should Ch.86
1. Too violent evaporation, which would reduce the liquor and disturb Ch.87
2. The running of a considerable risk of bursting the piece of poultry, Ch.88
1. All red meats containing a large quantity of juice should be Ch.89
2. In the case of white meats, whose cooking should be thorough, the Ch.90
3. With small game the fuel should be wood, but whatever fuel be used Ch.91
1. If the objects in question are _panés à l’anglaise_, _i.e._, dipped Ch.92
2. The same holds with objects treated with batter. Hence the absolute Ch.93
1. If too much sauce were used in proportion to the size of the object, Ch.94
2. If the sauce used were insufficient, it would be reduced before the Ch.95
3. The larger the piece, and consequently the longer it takes to cook, Ch.96
3. The blanching of certain other vegetables, which in reality Ch.97
PART II Ch.98
CHAPTER XI Ch.99
CHAPTER XII Ch.100
CHAPTER XIII Ch.101
2. Thick soups, which comprise the Purées, Veloutés, and Creams. Ch.102
3. Of a purée of asparagus-tops combined with a few cooked spinach Ch.103
4. Of a carrot purée (Purée Crécy). Ch.104
2. Cut six rectangles out of lettuce leaves; spread a thin layer of Ch.105
3. Prepare two tablespoonfuls of a coarse _julienne_ of carrots and Ch.106
1. Make a broth of the flesh of turtle alone, and then add a very Ch.107
2. Make an ordinary broth of shin of beef, using the same quantity Ch.108
2. The flavour which typifies them should be at once decided and yet Ch.109
3. When the flavour is imparted by a wine, the latter should be of the Ch.110
4. Supper consommés never contain any garnish. Ch.111
2. The velouté d’éperlans should, like almost all fish veloutés, be Ch.112
3. For this soup I elected to use a panada as the thickening element, Ch.113
CHAPTER XIV Ch.114
1. +Crayfish Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with crayfish tails Ch.115
2. +Lobster Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with slices of Ch.116
3. +Shrimp Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with crayfish tails Ch.117
4. +Capsicum Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with strips of Ch.118
5. +Physalia Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with chervil, Ch.119
6. +Green Pimentos Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with strips of Ch.120
7. +Early-season Herb Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with Ch.121
8. +Volnay Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with anchovy fillets, Ch.122
9. +Chambertin Mousse+ with fillets of trout decked like No. 8. Ch.123
1. Put a preparation of Duchesse potatoes in a piping-bag fitted with Ch.124
2. Bake some large potatoes in the oven. Open them; remove their pulp, Ch.125
2. A garnish consisting of twelve rolled or folded fillets of sole Ch.126
1. For a mould capable of holding one quart, fold twelve small fillets Ch.127
1. A hot ravigote sauce combined with the gravy of the lobster, from Ch.128
2. Strain the contents of the dripping-pan (cleared of all grease) Ch.129
CHAPTER XV Ch.130
2. At either end a nice heap of potatoes, shaped like long olives, and Ch.131
1. With a preparation of sweet potatoes, made after the manner of Ch.132
2. Cut some chow-chows in thick slices, _paysanne fashion_; parboil Ch.133
1. About one-quarter lb. of carrots turned to the shape of elongated Ch.134
3. The calf’s feet cut into small, square, or rectangular pieces. Ch.135
2. VEAL. Ch.136
CHAPTER XVI Ch.137
1. The various pheasants, grey and red partridges, the Tetras Ch.138
10. The ortolans. Ch.139
CHAPTER XVII Ch.140
1. _Oil seasoning_ may be applied to all salads, and is made up of Ch.141
2. _Cream seasoning_ is particularly well suited to salads of Ch.142
3. _Egg seasoning_ is prepared from crushed hard-boiled yolks of egg, Ch.143
4. _Bacon seasoning_ is used especially for dandelion, red-cabbage, Ch.144
5. _Mustard with cream seasoning_ is used particularly with beetroot Ch.145
CHAPTER XVIII Ch.146
2. The green, Parisian asparagus, which is very small, and of which the Ch.147
4. English asparagus, which is somewhat delicate in quality, but Ch.148
2. Flemish chicory, which is genuine endive in its primitive state, Ch.149
3. Brussels chicory, or the Belgian kind; obtained from cultivating the Ch.150
2. Red cabbages: used as a vegetable, as a hors-d’œuvre, or as a Ch.151
3. Round-headed or Savoy cabbages: specially suited to braising and the Ch.152
4. Scotch kale and spring cabbages: always prepared in the English Ch.153
5. Cauliflowers and broccoli: the flower of these is most commonly Ch.154
7. Kohlrabi: the roots of these may be dished as turnips, and the Ch.155
CHAPTER XIX Ch.156
1. The simplest way is to cover the pieces of toast with a thick layer Ch.157
2. The original method consists in melting the dice or slices of cheese Ch.158
CHAPTER XX Ch.159
1. Extract the butter-milk, which is always present in more or less Ch.160
2. Make it sufficiently soft to mix with the various ingredients of Ch.161
3. For the quantities given (No. 2373), eight oz. of fresh Gruyère, cut Ch.162
4. Surprise omelets. Ch.163
CHAPTER XXI Ch.164
CHAPTER XXII Ch.165
CHAPTER XXIII Ch.166